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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end names. Yet, tucked high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” says the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest place securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.